Nov 25, 2025
3 days is short to visit a capital, but it's enough to understand how it works.
We spent 3 days in Asuncion, which is short for visiting a capital, but it is enough to understand that it is unlike any other in South America. We arrived after seven hours by bus from Ciudad del Este, a surprisingly much more lively city than the capital. Asuncion, on the other hand, moves slowly, with residential neighborhoods, a historic center, and activity.
The Nomada Hostel, our perfect base in Asuncion
Upon arrival, we settle at El Nomada Hostel. A clean, well-maintained hostel, with a small swimming pool, functional kitchen, and several restaurants accessible within a fifteen-minute walk.
In the evening, we meet Alexandra, a Brazilian digital nomad, graphic designer, and dancer, who tells us about her favorite spots in the city. The evening goes by quickly, and we end up going to bed on the third floor of our bunk beds in the dormitory.
First Discoveries, Between Hidden Cafés and the Railway Museum
The next day, we test the Contacto Café Social Club. The entrance is so discreet that we pass by it without realizing.
Hot chocolate, cookies, soft music, local atmosphere. A perfect pause before diving into our exploration.
We then walk to the Museo de la Estacion Central del Ferrocarril. The entrance costs about two euros and the museum traces the history of South American railways. The most remarkable moment is the visit to a carriage from the 1800s, in which you can board. A little dive into another century.
Taking advantage of our momentum, we continue towards the cathedral. Except that in less than ten minutes, the streets change, the cobblestones disappear, the houses become more modest. We understand that we have plunged into a much less safe area. We turn around, and this simple detour reminds us of an episode of “J'irai dormir chez vous” filmed in this neighborhood (around 6 minutes 10), this area is indeed a "red zone" for tourists, we are not allowed to go there.
We then reach the Bahía de Asunción, an artificial beach around a large lake. Off-season, the beach is empty and only one bar is open. The atmosphere is peaceful, almost timeless.
We return by VTC, the easiest method when it is dark or when we do not speak the language well.
In the evening, we meet Alexandra and Naomie, a French woman who arrived at the hostel. They teach us a technique to enhance instant noodles with vegetables. A tip that will come in handy very often afterwards.
The Museum of Clay and the Contrasted Reality of Asuncion
The next day, we have lunch with three people in a very nice restaurant, then head towards the Museo del Barro.
On the way, we discover that the old town is largely left in disrepair. But a few kilometers away, the new town is booming, filled with construction work, modern buildings, and ultra-secure residential areas.
The museum itself brings together very varied works, ranging from indigenous art to contemporary creations. The whole is interesting, but without a clear guiding thread, which makes the visit a bit disconcerting.
Upon leaving, we decide to walk to the shopping center in what looks like the Beverly Hills of Asuncion. Security posts at every street corner, huge villas, a very residential atmosphere. We play at imagining which house we would like to live in if we lived here.
Upon leaving, we decide to walk to the shopping center in what resembles the Beverly Hills of Asuncion. Security posts at every street corner, huge villas, a very residential atmosphere. We play at imagining which house we would like to live in if we lived here.
A shopping center that stands out
The Paseo La Galería completely surprises us. Four floors of shops, an entrance covered in greenery, a dynamic atmosphere. Many high-tech products don’t have price tags, which leaves us puzzled.
Ciudad del Este is known for cheap electronic shopping, but here, it’s hard to compare without any indications. And beware of counterfeits, which are very common in the region.
After a cold drink, we head back to our hostel. In the evening, we dine at Negroni Rooftop, the only rooftop in the city. Beautiful view, very good cocktails, food a bit less convincing, but the place is calm and perfect to enjoy a laid-back moment.
A Last Unexpected Day
We were supposed to take a bus to Montevideo, but there were no available seats until the next day.
We took the opportunity to test the Mandioca Hostel in a private room, to regain a bit of intimacy.
It was a total failure. The state of the hostel and the room made us almost want to go back to our nine-bed dorm. But it was only for one night, so we gritted our teeth.
The next day, departure for Uruguay. More than 24 hours of travel awaited us.
Practical Information
Where to Sleep
El Nomada Hostel: clean, pleasant, good atmosphere, convenient location.
Mandioca Hostel: avoid if you are looking for comfort.
Sights to See
Museo del Barro
Museo del Ferrocarril
Asuncion Cathedral
Bahía de Asunción
Paseo La Galería
Modern District of Asuncion, to see the contrast with the old town.
Where to Eat and Have a Drink
Contacto Café Social Club: a discreet and warm café.
Negroni Rooftop: for a breathtaking view of the city.
The restaurants around El Nomada Hostel are numerous and within walking distance.
Tips
Use VTC for long distances or at night.
The old town of Asuncion is very calm and sometimes uninviting, avoid straying far from the main roads.
Paraguay is very affordable, but be cautious of counterfeits, especially for electronics.
For long trips (Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil), book your buses in advance.
