Nov 12, 2025
Our impressions of the largest city in the Southern Hemisphere!
After two hours of driving through the mountains from Santos, we arrived in São Paulo, this metropolis that everyone says is huge, stressful, and dangerous. We were expecting an urban anthill, noisy and chaotic.
Deconstructing Prejudices of São Paulo
But in reality, the city appeared to us to be very different: quiet streets, wide organized boulevards, facades covered in street art, and very few pedestrians. It was almost bewildering. It was at that moment that we understood that South Americans (particularly in Brazil) almost exclusively travel by car! Few people walk, unlike in Paris or France in general. Regarding the noise, it’s the same: we were very surprised. Unlike Rio, which is a very noisy city with constant honking, in São Paulo, even in the downtown area, it’s relatively quiet.
For five days, we explored São Paulo from our base, the Ô de Casa Hostel & Bar, in the bohemian and lively neighborhood of Pinheiros, by walking around, visiting museums, and having culinary discoveries.
The Tomie Ohtake Institute
For our first afternoon, we went to visit the Tomie Ohtake Institute, a contemporary art gallery known for its immersive exhibitions.
The current exhibition featured the works of Tarik Kiswanson, an artist who blends sculpture and introspection, and truly surprised us with his poetry and minimalism.
Afterward, we had dinner at a small neighborhood restaurant where everything seemed fried. Croquettes, fritters, empanadas… Here, it is a well-established culinary habit. First evening, first lesson: in São Paulo, you must love oil.
Walk in Ibirapuera Park
The next day, we headed to Ibirapuera Park, the green lung of the city.
This park is almost half the size of Central Park and it is easy to spend the whole day there. For four hours, we roamed its paths, between artistic foundations, exhibitions, and museums.
We visited the Museu Afro Brasil, the modern art museum, and the Japanese Pavilion, a Japanese temple built in tribute to Japanese immigration. There we met Ken, one of the pavilion's guardians. He spoke to us at length about his work and recommended a Japanese restaurant in Liberdade for the next day.
Under the gray sky of late afternoon, we took the way back to our hostel. Such simple and sincere encounters give all the charm to a trip.
Madalena Neighborhood and its Bohemian Alleys
The next morning, the sky was overcast, but the warmth remained pleasant. We had breakfast at Yandê Padaria Artesanal, right across from our inn. The place exudes good vibes with its homemade breads, strong coffee, and a gentle wake-up playlist.
Around us, the streets of Vila Madalena are full of colorful murals, trendy cafes, and artisan shops.
We met another traveler at the inn with whom we decided to explore the city together.
We then headed towards Liberdade, the Japanese neighborhood. We visited the Museu Histórico da Imigração Japonesa, which traces over a century of migration history through photos and objects. A fascinating museum, even for those who quickly tire of museums.
For lunch, we followed Ken's advice and ate at Torico Ramen. The broth, the noodles, everything was perfect.
Then, we went to the Metropolitan Cathedral of São Paulo, at Praça da Sé. Inside, a ceremony for young doctors was in full swing. We smiled, wondering if they were praying for their future diagnoses.
The day ended peacefully, between a hot shower and a beer at the inn.
Santos in image
Between culture and street art
The next day, a change of scenery: bright sun and a desire to walk.
We took the bus towards Avenida Paulista, the emblematic thoroughfare of the city.
First stop: the MASP. This museum suspended on its immense red pillars is a symbol of São Paulo. Inside, you navigate between the works of Van Gogh, Monet, and major Brazilian artists. And honestly, their shop is up to the standard of the place: candles, notebooks, mugs… It is hard not to give in.
In the afternoon, we walked along the avenue amidst the skyscrapers and pedestrians. For the first time, São Paulo really gave us the feeling of a great metropolis.
Discover São Paulo differently
Sunday morning, heading to Barra Funda for the Latin America Memorial, a huge cultural space designed by architect Oscar Niemeyer.
That day, a very special event was taking place there: the Day of the Dead Festival, coming straight from Mexico.
With its colorful masks, music, stalls, and dances, the atmosphere was both joyful and respectful. After chatting with some locals, we hit the road again toward Paulista Avenue, which was exceptionally closed to traffic that Sunday.
The avenue then becomes pedestrian and lively: musicians, street vendors, families, joggers… Another facet of São Paulo, more human and accessible.
We had a quick lunch before heading back to our hostel peacefully.
A city to tame
São Paulo is not a city that captivates immediately.
Like many big cities, it can seem cold or impersonal. But it is a city that moves, where access to culture is simple, and it thrives both at night and during the day!
Between ambitious museums, vast parks, secret cafés, and chance conversations, you end up getting attached to it.
You have to approach it without trying to understand everything.
Practical Information
Where to sleep
Ô de Casa Hostel & Bar : friendly and festive hostel, perfect for meeting other travelers.
Things to see
Where to eat / have a drink
Yandê Padaria Artesanal : perfect breakfast before a day of walking.
Torico Ramen : excellent ramen in Liberdade.
Seu Justino : friendly bar in Vila Madalena.
Supra Bar : local atmosphere and cocktails.
Tips
The metro is convenient, fast, and safe.
Rideshares are plentiful and affordable.
Always bring a windbreaker or poncho: rain comes unexpectedly.
On Sundays, enjoy Avenida Paulista without cars.
