Discovering the Cyclades
Discovering the Cyclades
Discovering the Cyclades
Jun 28, 2024
Our first big trip together
Before departure
There are trips one dreams of for years, and others that one decides on a whim.
Ours was a bit of both. Mathilde had dreamed of returning to Greece for a long time, not just for its islands but for its rhythm, its light, its way of life. For me, it was a first, and I believe there was no more beautiful initiation than that.
We made a simple plan: three islands and two weeks to discover the beauty of Greece.
The route was already a promise:
Paris → Mykonos → Paros → Milos → Athens → Paris.
A blue line on the map, dotted with sunsets and coastal roads.
Mykonos, three days of wind and light
When the plane flew over Mykonos on April 28, the sea shimmered like broken glass.
The wind swept everything in its path, and the sun struck the white facades. Off-season, the island breathes differently: the clubs are closed, the alleys almost empty, and the cats are the only inhabitants wandering without a rush.
Our first hotel, Tagoo Studios Mykonos, stood on a hill with a view of the Aegean Sea.
A turquoise pool, a lovely team, and an almost unreal calm.
That very evening, the sun set in front of our balcony. We walked twenty minutes in the wind to reach a small tavern at the port. First Greek dinner, first drink, and the feeling of having arrived exactly where we needed to be.
The next day, we rented a quad from the hotel to explore the island.
The roads are free, the panoramas spectacular. We sped to the Armenistis lighthouse, stopped randomly at coves, and got lost in paths of dry grass.
The wind whipped our faces, the sun hit our shoulders. It’s raw, joyful, alive.
In the evening, Mykonos empties. In the Chora, the cobblestones still shine with the day's salt, the blue shutters gently clap, and silence takes over from the tourists.
It’s this Mykonos that we love: the one of fishermen, cats, and sunsets without music.
Practical information - Mykonos
Tagoo Studios Mykonos - 194 € / 3 nights (off-season)
Eating:
Brunch : Feel Good Café
Dinner : Molaraki Mediterranean
See / do:
Isolated beaches and coastal caves Getting around: quad or scooter (rental through the hotel, competitive rates) Tip: bring bottled water (not potable on-site) and sunscreen as the wind deceives the sun.
Our first big trip together
Before departure
There are trips one dreams of for years, and others that one decides on a whim.
Ours was a bit of both. Mathilde had dreamed of returning to Greece for a long time, not just for its islands but for its rhythm, its light, its way of life. For me, it was a first, and I believe there was no more beautiful initiation than that.
We made a simple plan: three islands and two weeks to discover the beauty of Greece.
The route was already a promise:
Paris → Mykonos → Paros → Milos → Athens → Paris.
A blue line on the map, dotted with sunsets and coastal roads.
Mykonos, three days of wind and light
When the plane flew over Mykonos on April 28, the sea shimmered like broken glass.
The wind swept everything in its path, and the sun struck the white facades. Off-season, the island breathes differently: the clubs are closed, the alleys almost empty, and the cats are the only inhabitants wandering without a rush.
Our first hotel, Tagoo Studios Mykonos, stood on a hill with a view of the Aegean Sea.
A turquoise pool, a lovely team, and an almost unreal calm.
That very evening, the sun set in front of our balcony. We walked twenty minutes in the wind to reach a small tavern at the port. First Greek dinner, first drink, and the feeling of having arrived exactly where we needed to be.
The next day, we rented a quad from the hotel to explore the island.
The roads are free, the panoramas spectacular. We sped to the Armenistis lighthouse, stopped randomly at coves, and got lost in paths of dry grass.
The wind whipped our faces, the sun hit our shoulders. It’s raw, joyful, alive.
In the evening, Mykonos empties. In the Chora, the cobblestones still shine with the day's salt, the blue shutters gently clap, and silence takes over from the tourists.
It’s this Mykonos that we love: the one of fishermen, cats, and sunsets without music.
Practical information - Mykonos
Tagoo Studios Mykonos - 194 € / 3 nights (off-season)
Eating:
Brunch : Feel Good Café
Dinner : Molaraki Mediterranean
See / do:
Isolated beaches and coastal caves Getting around: quad or scooter (rental through the hotel, competitive rates) Tip: bring bottled water (not potable on-site) and sunscreen as the wind deceives the sun.
Paros, five days of authenticity and gentleness
The ferry departs Mykonos under a motionless sky.
Forty minutes later, the silhouette of Paros appears, greener, calmer, almost asleep.
Our Airbnb awaits us with a large terrace, a talkative host, and flowers everywhere.
The sea is just a few meters away. It’s here that we really felt like we were on vacation.
The next day, we head to the village of Naoussa, still deserted. The cats guide our steps through the alleys, the cobblestones are polished by the wind, and the silence has something sacred about it.
We stop at a café to eat gyros, a cat comes to claim its share, as always.
Then we take the quad to follow the coast until we reach a hidden cove.
The water is clear, icy, and the wind picks up. We shelter behind a rock, laugh, and sunbathe a little, as if time had stopped.
A few days later, we cross the sea to Antiparos, barely fifteen minutes from the Port of Pounda.
The island is tiny, almost silent. We ride together on the quad, discover the Castle of Antiparos, and attempt to access the cave of Antiparos (closed that day, but the view was enough).
In the evening, we return to Paros, soaked by the rain, to dine at a restaurant perched above Parikia.
We were alone, four clients in total, a storm outside, and a tavern that smelled of thyme and mulled wine.
That evening, it was the Greece we loved the most: simple, sincere, unexpected.
Practical information - Paros
Sleeping:
Airbnb near Parikia (terrace, sea view)
Eating:
Brunch (€14): Cosa All Day Café
Dinner: restaurants in Parikia (sea view, local atmosphere)
Glass at sunset: Bebop Bar
See / do:
To get around in the off-season: a quad or car (peaceful roads off-season), however, in high season, the roads are crowded with people, so be careful!
Advice: always check ferry times and open sites (Antiparos closes early in spring).
Paros, five days of authenticity and gentleness
The ferry departs Mykonos under a motionless sky.
Forty minutes later, the silhouette of Paros appears, greener, calmer, almost asleep.
Our Airbnb awaits us with a large terrace, a talkative host, and flowers everywhere.
The sea is just a few meters away. It’s here that we really felt like we were on vacation.
The next day, we head to the village of Naoussa, still deserted. The cats guide our steps through the alleys, the cobblestones are polished by the wind, and the silence has something sacred about it.
We stop at a café to eat gyros, a cat comes to claim its share, as always.
Then we take the quad to follow the coast until we reach a hidden cove.
The water is clear, icy, and the wind picks up. We shelter behind a rock, laugh, and sunbathe a little, as if time had stopped.
A few days later, we cross the sea to Antiparos, barely fifteen minutes from the Port of Pounda.
The island is tiny, almost silent. We ride together on the quad, discover the Castle of Antiparos, and attempt to access the cave of Antiparos (closed that day, but the view was enough).
In the evening, we return to Paros, soaked by the rain, to dine at a restaurant perched above Parikia.
We were alone, four clients in total, a storm outside, and a tavern that smelled of thyme and mulled wine.
That evening, it was the Greece we loved the most: simple, sincere, unexpected.
Practical information - Paros
Sleeping:
Airbnb near Parikia (terrace, sea view)
Eating:
Brunch (€14): Cosa All Day Café
Dinner: restaurants in Parikia (sea view, local atmosphere)
Glass at sunset: Bebop Bar
See / do:
To get around in the off-season: a quad or car (peaceful roads off-season), however, in high season, the roads are crowded with people, so be careful!
Advice: always check ferry times and open sites (Antiparos closes early in spring).
Milos, three days of adventure and surprises
The sea was calm when the ferry left Paros, but upon arrival at Milos, night was already falling.
A small planning error: our Airbnb was only booked for the next day.
Result: here we are wandering through the dark alleys in search of a roof.
A grandmother at the reception, a grandfather guarding the door, and a room with Spartan comfort, but a welcome worthy of a scene from a Greek film.
We fell asleep laughing at the situation.
The next day, we moved to our real accommodation: a small apartment facing the sea, isolated, perfect for stargazing.
We rent a car, the roads of Milos are long, rocky, and quads are no longer sufficient, especially since the southwestern part of the island is not accessible with most rental vehicles!
We start with the fishing villages:
Mandrakia, then Klima.
Colorful boats, houses carved into the rock, blue everywhere.
In the evening, we go up to Plaka Castle for sunset. The sky ignites, the sea fades, we don't say anything.
The next day, we go kayaking around the island.
The guide takes us to caves, arches, beaches invisible from the road.
The water is icy, but the light is golden. It's one of the most beautiful memories of the trip.
Then comes the exploration of the abandoned old mine, a remnant of the 50s, swallowed by nature.
An odd silence, almost suspended. We walk for hours, alone in the world.
On the last evening, we dine at the O! Hamos! Tavern, one of the best restaurants on the island: local cuisine, family atmosphere, and the feeling of being welcomed as friends.
The next day, we take the night boat to Athens.
It's cold at the port, we wait in the car lent by a compassionate local.
A few hours later, the plane takes off for Paris.
And we already know that we will return.
Practical information - Milos
Sleep:
Family hotel (unexpected but warm)
Seaview Airbnb, isolated and calm
Eat:
Groceries: Masoutis Market
See / do:
Kayaking around the island
Abandoned mines (free access, caution)
Getting around: car essential (distances are long and roads steep)
Advice: the island is wilder than its neighbors, good shoes are recommended if you explore the mines.
Last moments
On May 10th, as we boarded the return flight, we thought that this trip might be the true beginning of something. Two weeks of roads, laughter, surprises, shared dishes, and happy silences. Two weeks learning that a successful trip isn't about having everything planned, it's about having lived everything.
Milos, three days of adventure and surprises
The sea was calm when the ferry left Paros, but upon arrival at Milos, night was already falling.
A small planning error: our Airbnb was only booked for the next day.
Result: here we are wandering through the dark alleys in search of a roof.
A grandmother at the reception, a grandfather guarding the door, and a room with Spartan comfort, but a welcome worthy of a scene from a Greek film.
We fell asleep laughing at the situation.
The next day, we moved to our real accommodation: a small apartment facing the sea, isolated, perfect for stargazing.
We rent a car, the roads of Milos are long, rocky, and quads are no longer sufficient, especially since the southwestern part of the island is not accessible with most rental vehicles!
We start with the fishing villages:
Mandrakia, then Klima.
Colorful boats, houses carved into the rock, blue everywhere.
In the evening, we go up to Plaka Castle for sunset. The sky ignites, the sea fades, we don't say anything.
The next day, we go kayaking around the island.
The guide takes us to caves, arches, beaches invisible from the road.
The water is icy, but the light is golden. It's one of the most beautiful memories of the trip.
Then comes the exploration of the abandoned old mine, a remnant of the 50s, swallowed by nature.
An odd silence, almost suspended. We walk for hours, alone in the world.
On the last evening, we dine at the O! Hamos! Tavern, one of the best restaurants on the island: local cuisine, family atmosphere, and the feeling of being welcomed as friends.
The next day, we take the night boat to Athens.
It's cold at the port, we wait in the car lent by a compassionate local.
A few hours later, the plane takes off for Paris.
And we already know that we will return.
Practical information - Milos
Sleep:
Family hotel (unexpected but warm)
Seaview Airbnb, isolated and calm
Eat:
Groceries: Masoutis Market
See / do:
Kayaking around the island
Abandoned mines (free access, caution)
Getting around: car essential (distances are long and roads steep)
Advice: the island is wilder than its neighbors, good shoes are recommended if you explore the mines.
Last moments
On May 10th, as we boarded the return flight, we thought that this trip might be the true beginning of something. Two weeks of roads, laughter, surprises, shared dishes, and happy silences. Two weeks learning that a successful trip isn't about having everything planned, it's about having lived everything.
