Discover the must-visit spots in Budapest: Gellert Baths, ruin bars in the Jewish Quarter, Hungarian restaurants, and practical tips. A guide that's been tested and approved.
Budapest: the best places we’ve tried (thermal baths, ruin bars, restaurants)
Budapest is a city that surprises. You arrive not always knowing what to expect, and you leave wondering why you didn’t come sooner. Split in two by the Danube, with hilly Buda on one side and lively Pest on the other, this city has a spirit all its own: a blend of Austro-Hungarian grandeur, Eastern European nonchalance, and a nightlife scene that has nothing to envy Berlin.
We wandered through century-old baths, in ruined bars, ate hearty dishes, and drank Hungarian wines whose existence we didn’t even suspect. Here are our tried-and-tested addresses, our favorite spots, and our tips for enjoying Budapest as we did.
1. Thermal baths and spas: the must-do experience
You can't come to Budapest without going to the baths. The city is built on more than 120 thermal springs, and the bathing tradition dates back to the Ottoman era. It's a ritual, not a tourist gimmick.
Gellert Baths : the most spectacular one. The Art Nouveau interior is breathtaking, with its mosaics, columns, and pools at different temperatures. You feel as if you're in an aquatic palace from another century. Yes, it's touristy. Yes, it's still worth it. Arrive early in the morning to enjoy it before the crowds.
Tip Go to Gellért Baths on weekdays, before 10 a.m. On weekends, it's crowded. Plan 2-3 hours to enjoy all the pools. Don't forget your swimsuit (required in the mixed pools) and flip-flops. |
Plan B If Gellert is too crowded, the Rudas Baths (just around the corner) offer a more intimate experience with a rooftop pool and views of the Danube. Less grand architecturally, but the atmosphere is more local. |
2. Ruin bars and nightlife: where to go out in the evening
Ruin bars are THE thing in Budapest. The concept: take an abandoned building or courtyard, fill it with mismatched furniture, street art, unlikely lighting, and serve cheap beers there. Born in 2001 with Szimpla Kert, the phenomenon has spread throughout the Jewish Quarter (7th district).
Szimpla Kert: the pioneer, the most famous, and probably the one you will see in every guide. Yes, it's touristy now. But the place remains fascinating: every room is its own universe, with a bathtub turned into a banquette here, a wall covered with old toys there. Worth seeing at least once, preferably in the late afternoon before it gets crowded.
Doboz : more festive, with live music on certain evenings. The setting is raw, the atmosphere is electric, and the prices are reasonable. A good option for an evening that starts to liven up.
Puder Barzaz : a bar-theater in a vintage setting. More intimate than the others, with performances that are sometimes surprising. The ideal place to branch out from the classic ruin bars.
Csendes Letterem (Vintage Bar & Cafe) : the cozy version of the ruin bar. A labyrinth of rooms decorated with odds and ends, perfect for a drink during the day or early in the evening.
Tip Start with Mazel Tov for dinner (book ahead!), then continue on foot to Szimpla and Doboz, everything is in the same neighborhood. On Fridays and Saturdays, it fills up quickly after 10 p.m. |
3. Our favorite restaurants
Hungarian cuisine is hearty. Paprika everywhere, slow-cooked dishes, generous portions. But Budapest can also surprise with more refined spots and a gastronomic scene that is rapidly evolving.
Aszu Etterem : traditional Hungarian cuisine reimagined with finesse. The goulash is perfect, the pan-seared foie gras is a treat, and the Hungarian wine list is impressive. A must for discovering local flavors in an elegant setting.
Retek Bisztro : Our favorite Hungarian restaurant; between the atmosphere and the food, we’re telling you to go there without hesitation! Simple, delicious Hungarian bistro fare. The dishes change with the seasons, the prices are easy on the wallet, and the atmosphere is relaxed.
Borjuhus Birkhauser : specializing in meats, grilled dishes, and rustic fare. If you like food that sticks to your ribs, this is the place for you.
CONI Bar & Brunch : the trendy spot in Budapest. Eggs Benedict, pancakes, and good coffee. The place is bright and the terrace pleasant.
Street Food Karavan : a gathering of food trucks behind Szimpla Kert. Burgers, langos (the local fried specialty), chimney cakes. Ideal for eating quickly and well between two ruin bars.
To go further Don't leave Budapest without trying langos (fried flatbread topped with sour cream and cheese) and kurtos kalacs (chimney cake). You'll find them everywhere in markets and from street vendors. |
Central Market Hall of Budapest (Nagy Vasarcsarnok) : the large covered market, a magnificent building from 1897. On the ground floor, the stalls of paprika, sausages and foie gras. Upstairs, food stalls where you can taste Hungarian classics at low prices. Go in the morning to avoid the crowds.
4. Tours and monuments
Budapest is a monumental city in the literal sense. Its architecture is grand, blending Ottoman heritage, Austrian Baroque, and Art Nouveau. Here is what impressed us most.
Fisherman's Bastion (Halaszbastya): the neo-Romanesque terraces offer the best view of the Parliament and the Danube. Free if you skip the upper tower. At sunrise, it's magical.
Budavár Palace (Buda Castle): the former royal palace, now a museum, overlooks Buda Hill. The walk up is worth it for the little streets and the views. You can also take the funicular.
Hosok tere (Heroes' Square) : the large square with its columns and statues of Hungarian heroes. Impressive, especially at night when it is lit up. City Park (Varosliget) is just behind it, with the Széchenyi Baths.
Children's Railway (Huvos Volgy) : a real train through the Buda hills, operated by children (under adult supervision). Surreal and charming. The forest ride is beautiful.
Tip The Budapest Card offers unlimited transport and entry to several museums. Worth it from 2 days if you plan to visit museums. Otherwise, transport alone with a day pass is enough. |
5. Our favorite neighborhoods
7th District
The heart of nightlife and the ruin bars. Street art, restaurants, bars: everything is concentrated here. It's also Pest's most touristy neighborhood, but it retains an authenticity we love.
Buda and Castle Hill
The other bank, quieter, more majestic. Fisherman's Bastion, the Palace, the medieval alleyways. People stroll here during the day before heading back down to Pest for the evening.
Along the Danube
The riverside promenade, especially on the Pest side between the Parliament and Liberty Bridge, is a must-see. At night, when everything is lit up, it's one of the most beautiful urban views in Europe.
6. Practical tips
Budget
Budapest is one of Europe's most affordable capitals. Expect 8-15 euros for a meal, 2-3 euros for a beer, 15-20 euros for entry to the baths. As a backpacker, you can manage on 40-60 euros per day. In comfort mode, 80-120 euros.
Transport
The metro is fast and line M1 (the oldest in continental Europe) is an attraction in itself. Tram 2 runs along the Danube on the Pest side with spectacular views. Get a day pass (about 5 euros) or the Budapest Card.
Currency
Hungary uses the forint (HUF), not the euro. Exchange at currency exchange offices in the city (better rate than the airport) or withdraw from ATMs. Many places accept cards, but keep some cash.
